February 27, 2005


Sarita, Roshan and Ram in the place where the magic happens (the kitchen) Posted by Hello

Life

I met up with Dawa a couple of times during the week for hot lemon and ginger at one of Bouddha’s rooftop cafes and, obviously, was overflowing with excitement at the instigation of my extra lessons. It was during these rendezvous that I began to notice how little she really had to say for herself. In my eyes a good heart and generous nature will get most people a long way and thus far it had carried Dawa far in my affections. However, having mutual interests and a little intellectual stimulation is necessary for me to truly form attachment with any friend…and I was beginning to discover that Dawa wasn’t really equipped to offer me either.
I put most of this down to her mostly indolent lifestyle – one afforded her by the privilege of having a brother and sister working in Canada who were able to provide for her and her other sister as they remained in Kathmandu. On account of this, she had no need to seek gainful employment and therefore saw it as her right to sit around all day doing absolutely nothing. Not only did this mean she had nothing to talk about on a day-to-day basis but it meant her brain was almost atrophying from a lack of stimulation. As a result of this, she wasn’t overly keen on talking about anything for long and I’d often find myself biting my tongue about the day’s success story or a taxing encounter with Uttam as her butterfly attention alighted on some trifle in the vicinity. At this point, I was sufficiently taken with her happy disposition and kind-heartedness for my doubts to be overcome but I think I was secretly relieved to be without her company over the majority of the weekend, as Edd and I had made plans to climb the Valley’s highest peak, Pulchowki (2700m) in preparation for our impending treks.
Before this though I must mention my first momentous visit to Ram’s house for dinner. Edd and I had been due to visit a few weeks previously but that happened to be the day on which I was struck by my strange dizzy illness and Edd had gone alone. The reports he’d brought back had been very encouraging and it was with some anticipation that I sat down with him and Ram at Sarita’s table. I certainly wasn’t disappointed and had to admit that her Dal Bhat was, without question, the finest I’d eaten. (Apologies to Komala and the Didis at this point as I’m sure with hand-picked ingredients and not having to cook for hundreds, their food would measure up to Sarita’s.) I’d taken along a bottle of wine as a gift and was pleased to see that Ram enjoyed a good tipple as well as the next man – strictly with his dinner, of course. Neither Edd nor I stayed too late, both having school in the morning but we were certainly eager to repeat the experience and I hoped I wouldn’t have to wait too long to do so.
He and I took it slightly easier than normal at the usual Friday night session in Tom & Jerry’s and I was tucked up in bed well before midnight. I met him at the Great Wall at 7am and we went up to the roof to check the weather out before setting off. Not pleased with what we saw, we adjourned to Helena’s for a prolonged breakfast in the hope that an ominous batch of storm clouds would dissipate so we could head south and start our ascent. By the time we’d eaten and taken a thorough look at the still-flimsily-thin local papers (starved of any real news and still being censored due to the King’s ongoing edict) we found to our relief that the clouds had moved on and that the weather was looking reasonable for a successful summit attempt.
An hour-and-a-half later, we scrambled out of a microbus at Godavari and set off up the track in bright sunshine with a jaunty step. After this, I’m afraid, things started to go a little wrong. We’d barely climbed even a tenth of the way up an admittedly steep path and I was beginning to feel seriously under the weather. At first, I was keen to put it down to my total lack of exercise for several months, exacerbated by the appalling pollution in Kathmandu. However, it didn’t take me long to discover that this was assuredly not the main cause of my dizziness and excessive weakness. After scrambling up a particularly steep and slippery section of the path, I suddenly found myself doubled over with the most excruciating stomach cramps. Barely having time to grab Edd’s last packet of tissues, I stumbled for cover and got my lower garments clear of the dangerzone just in time. Needless to say, after almost five months of gastric good-health, I’d finally succumbed to the horrors of ‘Delhi belly’…or, more accurately, ‘Kat Gut’. ;-)
After this first attack, whilst I suddenly found myself sweating profusely, I felt a damn sight better than I had 5 minutes previously and at this stage I saw no reason not to continue up the hill. We opted to follow the army-built road instead of taking the forested (and more difficult) footpath and were making fine upwards progress when the weather decided to throw his hat into the ring. Out of nowhere we were suddenly hit by a deluge of steadily-increasing rain and the cloud ceiling decided to come and take a closer look at the mountain and surrounding valley. Unsure whether to proceed and unprepared for foul weather, we hunkered down under the shelter of some trees and tucked into our packed lunch to wait and see how the weather developed.
Several times the rain stopped and we advanced a few hundred metres further up the trail, only to be sent scurrying for cover by fresh downpours. As this went on, our enthusiasm certainly began to wane and the final straw came when my innards announced a new and urgent desire to be elsewhere once again. Unable to deny my spasming guts and fresh out of tissues after the previous episode, I was forced to tear several pages from my, hitherto pristine, Nepal Lonely Planet (sorry, Mum!) to do the necessary. At this point I was extremely grateful for the hand sanitizer I’d picked up in Cambodia so many weeks before – but clean hands or no, the only thing I wanted to do was get off that mountain and be within running distance of some decent toilet facilities. Reluctantly, we abandoned our attempt on Pulchowki (Edd’s second after the ill-fated trip with his kids) and headed back to town, where I wisely stocked up on plain biscuits, fruit juice and water and gratefully wrapped myself up in a sleeping bag.

Class 7 Posted by Hello

Rachana and her grin Posted by Hello

Aakash, Arun, Pawan and Nosang - The Boyz Posted by Hello

Sagar, Suroj, Kiran and Sanjay - brainboxes R us Posted by Hello

Jivin Jyoti (with Pasang in the background) Posted by Hello

Class 7 12:00 - 12:45

The best way to describe Class 7 would be: good. They were good students; their behaviour was good; their marks were good; and they always had good fun when we finished the work (inevitably, very quickly) and went out to the playground. It would be unfair to say that they were too good because there were characters like Arun, Rachana and Jyoti who livened things up and made their lessons entertaining but, with the exception of Malati, I didn’t really establish any great emotional connections with any of these kids. They just didn’t have the requisite level of naughtiness, that cheeky grin or wayward streak to remind me of my own school days and, more often than not, we maintained a quite sterile, professional relationship between us. I suppose, in many ways they’d been conditioned and self-selected to be an extremely well-behaved bunch of kids. As the oldest class in the school (still growing after just 5 years so that this year’s class 7’s would be the first ever Class 8 next year) they had been instilled with a sense of responsibility for the younger children a lot earlier than would normally be expected. Since starting in Class 3, they would have been the seniors that the smaller, younger kids looked up to and expected guidance from. Over the course of 5 years this had shaped them into the exemplary young students that they were. Add to this the natural loss of more disruptive and less able students (not necessarily lost from the school, as they could have been kept back a year to swell the ranks of the belligerent 6A) as time moved on and it’s easy to understand the unusually keen and approval-seeking behaviour of this top class. Of course, for a bunch of 11-16 year olds, they were just as prone to excitement and just as hungry for fun as any other…they just kept a tight rein on this until any work had been completed.
Owing to their superlative studying skills, Class 7 definitely spent more time in the playground than anybody else and, as well as teaching them a great variety of English schoolyard games, I also learnt a lot of their games…which I was always sufficiently crap at to give them a good giggle. They took whole-heartedly to British Bulldogs and Stick-in-the-Mud, much as the younger children had but, with the extra time, I was able to instruct them in the joys of Rounders, which soon became the only game they’d agree to play. In the end, they became so good at it that a single-innings game managed to run to19 rounders apiece and took up an entire 45-minute lesson! While a lot of the boys were able to make use of their cricketing skills, I was often surprised at the power generated by some of the meeker, quieter girls, which often sent the ball flying over the fence or into the roof space of one of the classrooms.
One member of the class who could never quite bring himself to play during lesson time was Sanjay – always preferring to remain inside and study his books while the others ran riot outside. I never got to the bottom of this little mystery – whether it was a perceived lack of athleticism or a bona fide preference for study – but he was a serious student and I never questioned his choice. He and the other boys on the front row (including Sagar and Kiran) were as close as it came to being teacher’s pets. However there was none of the sycophancy one would associate with, for instance, Dennis the Menace’s arch-enemy, Walter the Softy. They simply liked to get good marks and responded well to praise and encouragement. One row back, the slightly older boys Aakash, Arun, Pawan and Norsang were definitely not desperate for approval and I’m sure back in the UK their ‘a bit too cool for school’ attitude would have been replaced by full-scale delinquency in similar boys. I never once saw Norsang nor Arun wearing their uniforms – and with Pawan and Aakash it was a rare event – but they were never anything other than utterly respectful and their class work was always perfectly presentable. The time to watch them was during listening comprehensions or when the class played Pictionary – on these occasions they weren’t averse to the idea of bending the rules to get ahead.
Over on the other side of the classroom (boys and girls seemed to self-segregate as far as I could tell) there were a few bright lights who’d put a smile on my face. Lhamo and Sunita were the centre of the ‘in’ group, being somewhat older and taller than the others. I was always having to separate them - both from each other and from the brighter and more studious Deepa, who wasn’t beyond helping them out if my back was turned. If there was any whispering and giggling to be found it would have its epicentre between these two and Anita, their partner in crime. Anita was clearly a girl who was still learning to have confidence in herself and often would hesitate to give the right answer for fear of it not being right. When she did make a mistake she’d crack a silly grin and wave her hands frantically up and down towards her forehead. I later learnt that when she first arrived at the school her reaction to errors was to pull clumps of her own hair out in frustration – God only knows how this distressing habit developed! With the help of the staff and her classmates this behaviour had evolved into the less damaging waving display just described and, with any luck, in a few more years she won’t feel the need to berate herself at all.
Down the bench from Anita was the one girl I could always count on to be included in extra lessons, Rachana. Neither slow nor stupid, she was perhaps a little younger than most of the others and had a slight deficit in the attention department so she often found herself expected to provide an answer and realised that she had no idea what the question was. With her flashing eyes and honest, unrestrained grin it wasn’t possible to get angry with her myself…although the boys would sometimes get irritated if her answer was between them and the playground.
One row forward sat the good girls of the class: sweet-natured, sweet-smiled and immaculate in both appearance and presentation. Of these, I got to know Malati best during the help she gave me with Mina’s dyslexia. She was a model student in every respect and with a lovely demeanour to boot. She really seemed to enjoy helping out and had a natural gift for explaining things…I really hope she considers being a teacher when she’s finished with school because I really think she’d be very good.
Back at the front once more and you’d find the irrepressible character of Jyoti: never short of a word to say (regardless of the subject), I was forever having to tell her to be quiet and stop her from shouting out the answers. Unusually, as a girl, she was the only member of the class to be found performing squats on a regular basis. However, she never took exception to her just punishment and, for my part, I never felt any rancour towards her cheerful cheekiness.
All in all, Class 7 were easy to teach and they certainly didn’t have any trouble passing their exams. If I’d been looking for an easy time, I’d have wished all my classes were like them…but if they had, I’m sure my time at Samata School would have been far less fulfilling.

Udip - one of the success stories of my extra lessons Posted by Hello

Extra Lessons

As time drew on, I was getting to know my pupils better and also getting a better idea of their individual strengths and weaknesses. After 3 weeks, it became apparent that, while some children were going to have little difficulty completing the syllabus, there were others who would struggle if something didn’t change. I was loath to alter the syllabus, which I judged was of the right level – apart from anything else, I really didn’t want to leave the brighter kids short-changed – so, in the end, I opted for helping the less able children to get up to speed. I informed all of my children that I would be running extra lessons and asked anybody who felt that they needed more help to come to one of the bigger classrooms after school on Sunday. I really hadn’t counted on the learning appetites of my children and was totally overwhelmed when well over 100 of them turned up on that first night. Obviously, most of the kids did not need to be there and I realised that I’d have to find a better way of selecting out those kids who would benefit from extra tuition. I think many of the kids had come because they thought that I’d be teaching yet more vocabulary, some came because they would rather be at school than at home…and, probably, some just turned up because their friends were going to be there. In the end, I decided that the kids who were getting poor marks in their listening comprehensions were probably the ones who would benefit most…and this would necessitate splitting the extra lessons up by class so that everyone was on the same page. So Monday evenings came to be for class 4’s, Tuesdays for class 5’s, Wednesdays for classes 6 & 7, leaving Sundays and Thursdays for those kids who were really struggling (just one or two students) and needed direct one-to-one tuition.
One further problem created by this system was the absolute need for the children to be doing their own work during listening comprehensions. The classrooms were very cramped – sometimes with four to five children crammed onto a narrow, 5ft bench. Given this close proximity, copying other people’s work was very common and, unfortunately, due to the teaching methods employed, not something that normally bothered the other teaching staff too much. As my entire extra teaching strategy was based on the kids’ weekly performance, it was important for me to know that it was their performance. I started putting bags up on desks between the children’s copy books, splitting up the known confederates and getting some of the better-behaved girls (much to their chagrin!) to sit between some of the naughtier boys. Every time we had a listening comprehension I made a real point of explaining to the kids the importance of doing their own work – you know, the ‘it’s you you’re cheating, not me’ speech. It was a new game for a lot of the kids to play, but I think by the time term was coming to an end most had got the basic concept. Unfortunately, as the exam demonstrated, there was at least one exception.
The extra lessons themselves became something that I’d really look forward to at the end of every day. With fewer bodies to manage and a genuine need for most of the attendees, I was able to enjoy some truly rewarding teaching. Being able to concentrate one-to-one with a student for more than 60 seconds gave me some real, tangible returns – I could actually see them improving in front of my very eyes. These kids – often shy and retiring when surrounded by a classroom full of their peers – started to come out of their shells and often astounded me with their ability to pick up phrases and constructions that had entirely eluded them just days earlier. Each and every one of the kids who came regularly to these extra lessons (for there was always the odd brighter kid who just hadn’t done the work that week) improved immeasurably over the course of 4 weeks. Boys like Udip (6A) and both Bal and Bir (4A) who had no chance of passing any exam when I first arrived, ended up passing comfortably and even surpassing some of their brighter, but more lackadaisical, peers. The extra lessons also gave me the opportunity to identify that Mina (again, from 4A) was actually dyslexic in English…but not in Nepali (a phonetic language). This got me all worked up at first as I couldn’t understand why she was being taught at an English-medium school, where she was unable to read the text books or even understand what she had written. I soon realised that, due to my short-termer status, it wasn’t really up to me to question the whys and wherefores of the situation but simply to get on with it and make the most of the situation.Over the last 3 weeks, with much-appreciated help from Malati (one of my Class 7 students), Mina and I worked really hard on using phonetic representations of English words to allow her to take (and pass!!) her exams.
All of these kids made me immensely proud and these extra lessons even gave me the opportunity to learn to love some of the more annoying and less-respectful little blighters. Often I’d find the hairs on my neck standing on end as I saw them slowly grasping something I was trying to teach them and I would always float out of that classroom – even after a long, tiring day – smiling and thoroughly energised. A few times, particularly after difficult but successful lessons with Mina and Malati, I was moved almost to tears and I thought my heart might break with the sheer joy of seeing that light come on and the smile appear on her face…and for seeing Malati’s selfless generosity towards a girl, who more-often-than-not was pilloried by her less pleasant schoolmates. More than anything else, I think my after-school experiences confirmed my desire to be a teacher. I began to feel a genuine and growing need to coach, to impart knowledge…in essence, to educate.