I wondered into town in search of supplies (fuel, noodles, chocolate, energy drinks etc.) and found that, despite scratching beneath the surface, Sokcho was still a pit. Got the necessary, packed up and moved out shortly before twelve. My notorious appetite insisted that I bolster myself for later exertions before catching the bus, so I stopped in at, literally, the first restaurant next to the hotel. It turned out to be a milestone in my Korean adventures. Whilst many helpful people had ensured I caught the correct bus and directed me to various sights, I had yet to have a conversation with a Korean. I think it must be incredibly difficult for Koreans to speak English – for a start some phoneme differentiations in our language, don’t even exist in theirs (‘f’ and ‘p’ for starters…my Korean name being Pin ;-) hmmm…). Then of course there’s the matter of an entirely different alphabet. This notwithstanding, many Koreans are more than competent speakers – and keen to practise their skills given the slightest opportunity. I put my lack of chat thus far down to the usual Big City syndrome in Seoul and my own reticence. Anyway, I digress…
I sat down opposite an elderly gentleman, who observed me offloading the 20kg pack and immediately piped up with, ‘Are you true Alpinist?’ I was so chuffed that he had obviously recognised me for what I am (er, no laughing at the back) that I responded ‘Yes!’ and immediately launched into my plans for hiking around Seoraksan Park. He was genuinely interested in my thoughts on Korea and how it compared to ‘Scoterland’ and ‘Engerland’. Between recommending what to eat (he wouldn’t let me have what he was eating, as he thought it would be too fiery for my delicate European palate…I never learn, eh?) and haranguing the proprietress to hurry up on my behalf, we talked about his children (both studying in the States) and his love for the local countryside. He seemed genuinely interested in what I had to say and really made me feel at home for the first time in Korea. Thus far, I had quite happily taken in all the new experiences and kind of adapted to the ‘outsider’ experience. Those who know me well, will agree that above most things, I love to talk. Having spent most of the preceding five days saying very little, this moment was eagerly accepted – and I was truly sorry to see him leave. I now felt that I had begun my transition from tourist to traveller…