Leaving Cambodia

I enjoyed two further days exploring the outlying Angkorian and pre-Angkorian sites. I saw nothing that made as big an impression on me as the places I’d seen on my first day – but the sheer number and scale of the monuments really has to be seen to appreciate what the Khmer God-Kings bequeathed us.
The early-era monuments of the Roluos group, while lacking the fine detail of later constructions, are still resplendent in their beautiful symmetry. The capacity of ancient engineers to move and store water is widely demonstrated throughout the area…long channels, huge reservoirs and ceremonial bathing pools abound.
Banteay Srei, supposedly the site of the most exquisite carving, was a disappointment because large areas (including some of the finest stonework) were cordoned off for restoration work. I didn’t take a trip out to Beng Mealea as I didn't fancy sitting on the back of a bike for the long trip. At the very least, that’s two more reasons to re-visit Angkor.
There are a vast number of international and local restoration projects going on. The French and the Japanese, particularly, seem to be taking the lead and, while more people are inevitably going to come to Angkor, it seems there will be more to see…and perhaps one day it will be possible to see the sights as their architects intended. As for me, nothing made me happier than heading back to Angkor Wat on my final afternoon to see the sun set one last time on her magical walls.
It was also a time to reflect on my Cambodian adventures before my bus journey to Bangkok. Cambodia is an incredible place. As with many parts of the developing world, there is abject poverty juxtaposed with extravagant wealth. Unfortunately, this legacy has come from the organisations trying to help the country back on its feet. The massive influx of UN-workers and a variety of NGOs with well-paid staffers has served to create a dual economy, where the poor don’t really seem to benefit from the rich tourist dollar. More than anywhere else I’ve been, the shocking lack of infrastructure away from the main tourist routes makes rural Cambodia seem very wild and remote. I truly got a sense of the ‘road less travelled’ when I ventured into the northern hills. Serendipity Beach was like being back in the Philippines. Angkor lived up to my wildest expectations. Ultimately, though, in a country with such a disturbing recent past (and living with the legacy of its un-cleared landmines) the warm-hearts and smiling faces of the Khmer people are what made my sojourn here so pleasant. To have lived through what these people lived through and to still be capable of generosity, trust and kindness is truly amazing. Cambodia, above all the places I’ve visited on this journey, has a special place in my heart. I will definitely be back.