Jomsom

Up early and pre-packed, Don and I were able to leave quickly enough to make up for the fact that taxi services had ceased to run on account of the far-reaching strike. We strolled to the airport with our packs looking like a pair of soldiers on mountain training exercise. In contrast, Suriya shouldered a tiny knapsack which made a mockery of our intentions to pack light. At the airport we were able to breakfast on a very creditable and rapidly-served feast of eggs, toast and pan-fried potatoes, washed down with lashings of black tea. Our flight to Jomsom was on an even smaller plane than the previous day’s (entry hatch coming up to my sternum!)…but I was glad of this when I saw just how short the runway was at the other end. Our short flight transported us from the lush lowlands of Pokhara to the high arid desert of the Mustang. Shelving slopes of sand and scree seemed to have come from Nevada but the backdrop of jagged, snow-covered mountains were unmistakably Himalayan and, passing up the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki, we got a preview of the route we were to retrace on foot over the succeeding week. Landing on Jomsom’s curtailed strip with a full view through the pilot’s windscreen was a sphincter-tightening, unforgettable experience – but this was topped by the views evident as I stepped down onto the tarmac. Nilgiri loomed magnificently over the shoulders of her foothills and blue, blue sky promised a warm days hike up to Kagbeni. We met Michael at the exit to the airport and, after showing our ACAP permits no less than 3 times, finally got underway.
There was no strenuous hiking on this first day and our path was clear up the meandering river valley. However, at this altitude (2700m), I definitely noticed the thinning of the atmosphere – but the short length of our trek and a minimal rise in elevation meant that we were easily able to wander along and appreciate our surroundings at leisure. Three hours steady walk brought us to the head of the valley at Kagbeni and from here there we had spectacular views back to Nilgiri and glimpses into the Annapurna Himal over the ridge up to Muktinath. At the northern end of the village we found fine views into the Mustang Conservation Area before wending our way through the narrow streets to visit the old Gompa. Suriya found us a pleasant teahouse and we settled down to a quiet afternoon of reading, eating and acclimatizing. The Devil, they say, make work for idle hands and it wasn’t long before I was indulging one of my favourite vices as I duped Don and Michael into playing cards along with Suriya. We spent an enjoyable hour playing Presidents and Arseholes (a la Vietnam) but when Suriya retired for dinner I soon progressed to the next stage of my plan: Taking Money from Unsuspecting Innocents (plan #347, courtesy of Wile E. Coyote Esq.) Five minutes of brief explanation and Don and Michael were soon happily playing Texas Hold ’Em – little realising the danger their wallets were in. After 2 hours (interrupted only by dinner – my 6th meal of the day) I had fleeced Michael for 82….rupees. Of course this was but a small beginning and I was to have him in my thrall for another 8 days yet. We retired to bed ridiculously early but, despite the short distance covered, there was no denying that we were feeling the altitude and it didn’t take us long to succumb to the Sandman, snuggled as we were in the warmth of sleeping bags. The next day promised to be strenuous as we were due to climb to the holy site of Muktinath – but being early to bed, we hoped to compensate for the restlessness caused by snoring room mates and thin air.